Monday, February 18, 2013

Valve Rod Set

Revised Feb 18, 2013          Subject to Revisions


Valve Rod Set as Designed With Alibre 3D CAD
 
 
 The above the illustration shows they valve rod set designed with the 3-D CAD software.   The author elected to print the components on edge which seems to suit the small parts better.   The orientation of the parts is the preferred way for good detail and ease of clean up.

Valve Rod Set as Printed with the 3-D Printer

 The above photo shows the valve rod set immediately after being printed.  The part definition is good.  the longer rods are about three inches long and the shortest is a bit less than three quarters of an inch.  Some of the smaller rods have a wide section to provide enough material for tapping.  The two inch long valve shafts are round with a U shaped end to hold the combination lever.  Those are at the bottom left side of the print.  Just above are the combination levers.  At the top are the long radius rods.  On the bottom right side the two shortest rods are the lifting links.  Between them and the radius rods at the right side are the union links.

The Set of Rods After Removal From the Printer Raft Before Cleaning

The rods were readily removed from the printing raft of green ABS.  Small amounts of raft residue are visible.  It was relatively easy to remove the raft residue using the Dremel tool sanding wheel and model knife.  The parts are very thin and fairly small.  Despite their smallish size, the printer did a good job.

Outside portion of the Crosshead During Tapping

The outer portions of the crosshead were removed then drilled and tapped for 00-90 screws to provide the attachment point for the union links.  The above photo shows one with the tap in place.  Tapping was done by hand with just the tap, no tap holder.  It is relatively easy to turn the small tap in the ABS plastic.  A number 65 drill was used to drill the tap hole.  That size is just 0.035" in diameter and is easily misplaced or lost if one is not careful.

Fireman Side Valve Rod Set in Place

The full set of the fireman side valve gear was assembled using a number of 00-90 screws and installed on the model.  The thin radius bar at the top passes through the center of the curved expansion link and attaches to the top of the combination lever at the left and the lifting link at the right.  The combination lever attaches to the valve stem near the top just below the connection to the radius bar and at the bottom to the union link.  The union link connects the bottom of the combination lever to the crosshead.  The lifting link at the top right will connect to the lifting arm attached to the reversing shaft after it is installed.  The lifting arms and reversing lever and shaft will be built and attached a bit later in this blog.

Engineer Side Set of Valve Rods and Levers and Crosshead Cover

The rod set consists of the short lifting link at the top of the above photo; next below it is the union link, then below it is the combination lever.  Below that is the valve stem then the long radius bar.  Finally at the bottom is the crosshead cover and an example 00-90 screw.  The various rods are drilled either for clearance of the screw or for tapping the threads. 

Assembled Engineer Side Valve Rod Set

The valve rod set is shown assembled above.  At the top left corner is the lifting link.  Attached to it the long rod going to the right from that link is the radius bar.  The radius bar connects to the top of the combination lever which goes downwards passing through the valve stem where it is also connected.  The valve stem goes to the right side in the photo.  The downward pointing combination lever connects to the union link at it's bottom end.  The union link connects back to the left to the crosshead cover.  One thing to note is that the long radius bar has two pins built in towards the left side.  Those pins will sit in the curved slot of the expansion link already installed on the locomotive model.  In the prototype and the model, the radius bar slides up or down in the expansion link depending on the position of the lifting link and lifting lever to which it attaches.

Engineer Side Valve Rod Set Installed

The above photo shows the set of valve rods installed.  In order to install the radius rod the expansion link was disassembled along with the link mount.  A number of small screws hold everything in place so that the rods may be disassembled, adjusted and if necessary replaced.


Set of Lifting Lever, Reverse Lever, Reverse Shaft and Mounts
 
 
 The set of parts composing the lifting and reverse levers, shaft and mounts are shown above.  They are printed in black ABS.  The shaft has a bend to provide clearance for the boiler as in the prototype.  The two mounts are at the top of the print.  At the center right side is the fireman side lifting lever while just below is the engineer side combination lifting and reverse lever.  The overall assembly will be attached to the top of the expansion link mounts.

Reversing Lever Assembly Mounted on Locomotive Model

The white ABS lifting link at the bottom left of the photo attaches to the fireman side lifting lever.  That lever is on the end of the reversing shaft.  The shaft passes through the mount bracket that is attached in turn to the expansion link brackets below the shaft end.  Small 00-90 screws hold the brackets in place on the expansion link brackets.  The shaft then passes across the engine frame underneath the boiler to the engineer side at the top of the photo.  Just before that end of the shaft another bracket supports the shaft and is mounted on the engineer side expansion link brackets in the same manner as on the fireman side at the bottom center of the photo,  The L shaped combination lifting and reversing lever is attached on the engineer side. At a later point in the model construction the engineer side reversing lever will attach to the reach rod that on the prototype is operated by the engineer to set the proper position for the lifting levers.

Model with Completed Valve and Reversing Gear Installed

The model features fully working motions of the various drive and valve rods along with the reversing gear.  The model now has all of the motion gear installed.  It all works fairly smoothly even though this is a static model.  This feature allows one to demonstrate the fully working motion gear for interested visitors. 

The next phase of the project will be to build the boiler assembly.  This will be done in segments as the overall boiler is much too large to print at one time.  The author contemplates printing the boiler in four round sections and the firebox.  The cab will be a separate assembly.  Details such as the smokestack, domes, walkways, grab irons and many other small details will be done separately and glued or screwed in place.  The assembled boiler will be removable with a screw down the smokestack and another somewhere in the rear attaching to the cylinder and frame assemblies. 

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Eccentric Crank and Rod

Revised 2/6/2013          Subject to Revisions


Eccentric Cranks

Eccentric cranks are the third outermost item attached to the main driver crank shafts.  On the model they will provide retention of the main connecting rods which in turn retain the side coupling rods. the cranks are held in place using a 0-80 screw.  

Two pair of eccentric cranks

 In the photo above two pair of eccentric cranks as they came out of the 3-D printer are shown.   Two pair of cranks were built although only one pair will be used on the model. This was done in case there were printing problems.

Pair of eccentric cranks with 0-80 screws
 
Two 0-80 screws are threaded into the crank as shown above.  At the narrow end the eccentric rod will be attached using a short screw.  The hole is tapped for the screw.  At the large end a screw is used to compress the two sides of the crank around the crank shaft end.  On the model the crank shaft is round with two flats to keep the crank at the proper angle of 25 degrees relative to the crank shaft to center hole angle on the wheel.


Eccentric crank installed on end of main driver crank shaft

The above photo shows one crank installed on the outermost end of the crank shaft outside the main connecting and coupling rods.  One problem was observed, the accuracy of the 3-D printed shaft was very poor and the designed round with two flat shape did not come out well.  The author attempted to file the flats a bit however the overall shape of the shaft tip was highly distorted. 

Main driver crank shaft showing distorted eccentric crank mount


As a result the shaft tips were not usable.  The cranks however had nearly perfect shape.  As a result of the distorted crank shaft tips the cranks would not stay attached and would not hold angle.  They would easily fall off with any kind of pressure.  The author decided to remove the tips and attach machined metal tips in their place.

Eccentric rod set immediately after 3-D printing

Meanwhile a pair of eccentric rods were printed.  These turned out good needing relatively minor cleanup.

Set of three eccentric crank mounts in mill just after milling out screw head relief cavities

A design for eccentric crank mount shaft tips was done using two 00-90 screws to attach the tip to the driver crank shaft.  The old tips would be milled away leaving a flat surface and two holes drilled to match the newly machined tips.  The photo above shows the set up on the Sherline 2000 mill with a aluminum work piece in place.  The work piece has three tips defined each having two clearance holes for the 00-90 screws and relief cavities for the screw heads already machined.

 

Tap holes were drilled through the wood backing block

After tapping the wood backing block the three parts will be bolted to the it during outline machining

The three parts are each held to the backing block with two 00-90 screws

Parts in the mill after machining the outline shape

View of the Sherline 2000 mill used to machine the parts

The parts are very small being 0.2289" diameter with two flats 0.180" wide on the side.  The part is 0.122" thick and has two holes for the 00-90 screws and a relief cavity for the heads so they will be flush with the outside edge after mounting.

Three eccentric crank mounts while still attached to the backing board

Aluminum work piece removed showing the three repair eccentric crank mounts


Work piece after removal showing that the locations for the parts was completely cut through

Backing block with center eccentric crank mount and eccentric crank

Eccentric crank on repair mount


 After machining a fit check showed a very good snug fit of the crank on the mount with almost no play.  After tightening the crank compression screw the crank was found to be firmly in place with no tendency to move or slip off.

Main driver during removal of the defective crank shaft portion with the mill

Drilling two tapping holes for the 00-90 screws using the mill to get proper locations

Drilled holes in end of modified crank shaft

The crank shaft diameter where the tapping holes were drilled is 0.321" in diameter.  The holes are 0.035" diameter on 0.1145" centers.

Main driver with 00-90 hand tap in place in crank shaft end

Eccentric crank and repair crank mount portion of crank shaft

Crank shaft with repair part screwed in place on crank shaft end

Eccentric crank mounted on repaired main driver

Assembled eccentric crank and rod on model during final fit check

Very small details such as the eccentric crank shaft end do not turn out well and may not be usable to mate moving parts as occurred in this model.  The drivers were fabricated very early on and subsequent model building does not provide confidence that sufficient improvement might be possible .  The repair crank shaft end worked very well and could be built with very good accuracy, more than sufficient for the modelling effort.